Hooligans and Haircuts

Celtic Crossing, P & H Cafe, The Brass Door

I went against my nature yesterday and ventured into the land of sports.  After my experience at Celtic Crossing for the USA v England World Cup match, I vowed to watch USA games from the safety of a private dwelling in the future.  But when I saw the setup The Brass Door put together for this Cup’s opening game, I couldn’t help but check it out. 

The hardest working bartenders in Memphis, pause for a moment to sing the US national anthem during pre-game.
The hardest working bartenders in Memphis, pause for a moment to sing the US national anthem during pre-game.

The Brass Door, at 152 Madison just past the Redbirds stadium, is a more recent addition to the Memphis Irish pub scene – but they have built a good reputation in record time.  Knowing that this World Cup will draw more Memphians out than ever before, Seamus Loftus planned ahead by providing extra space to view the game. And, more importantly, extra bars to help serve the massive crowd of thirsty hooligans.

The alley next to The Brass Door provides that country club feel, for those than can take the heat.
The alley next to The Brass Door provides that country club feel, for those than can take the heat.
The main floor of The Brass Door is showing signs of congestion 45 minutes before the game starts.
The main floor of The Brass Door is showing signs of congestion 45 minutes before the game starts.

The alley next to the bar was converted into an impromptu patio space, complete with cash bar and shade to keep patrons cool.  The main bar, by far the most popular hangout, was usually at least 3 people deep to get a drink.

The neon glow of The Mad Earl adds an almost divey feel to The Brass Door's adjacent sports bar.
The neon glow of The Mad Earl adds an almost divey feel to The Brass Door’s adjacent sports bar.
The bar underneath The Brass Door is as cool as its namesake - The Cavern.
The bar underneath The Brass Door is as cool as its namesake – The Cavern.

More savvy customers jumped into the joint next door, The Mad Earl – The Brass Door’s more traditional sports bar style addition – where getting a beer and watching the game involved considerably less elbows.  And those seeking a main bar experience without the sardine-like ambiance ventured to the basement floor of The Brass Door – affectionately named The Cavern, where you get the same full bar experience and access to the secret second set of bathrooms.  (Trust me, that’s important when there are hundreds of people.)

I was fortunate enough to snag a relatively protected seat on the dais behind the main crowd.  A great seat for the game and also a great view of the crowd.  As a fan of the sport as a whole, it makes me giddy to see so many USA supporters in one place.  As the official watch party of the American Outlaws Memphis, this was definitely the place to be.  I have it on good word that Celtic was just as crowded, which only doubles my joy.  I’m far from patriotic most of the time, but the USA national soccer teams are a rare phenomenon in a country where most sports are battles between states, cities, and colleges.  The two squads, men’s and women’s, are an assembly of the best our nation has to offer.  You don’t have to watch the games to get behind the USA as a team.  What else are you going to do?  Root for France?

The Brass Door main floor is standing room only for the first USA World Cup match v Ghana.
The Brass Door main floor is standing room only for the first USA World Cup match v Ghana.

By the time the game versus Ghana kicked off at 5PM, there must have been close to 200 people just within sight of my seat.  The full force of that crowd was heard in the first minute of the game when Clint Dempsey capitalized on a beautiful touch and scored the opening goal.  It happened so fast, I didn’t even have my camera turned on.  Here’s what I was able to capture of the crowd in celebration.  If that level of excitement doesn’t titillate you, then you are probably an antisocial dick.

You can spot the most dedicated USA fans in the rock-star front row at every game.
You can spot the most dedicated USA fans in the rock-star front row at every game.

The game continued with a steady tempo of back and forth, dotted with the occasional goal attempt, but none of the magic from that first play.  By halftime my camera was agonal and my aversion to loud, sweaty sports fans was in full effect.  I left the American Outlaws and friends to continue supporting our team while I sought quieter climes.  I was duly rewarded with a cool, empty bar that was showing the second half of the game – good ole reliable P&H.  An exciting final 15 minutes and the USA eked a win over Ghana, providing some sense of closure as the defeats we suffered in 2006 AND 2010.  From there, I was able to gather my thoughts and diagnose the problem with my camera (parts on order now).  Uttering a sigh of relief I settled in to relax the night away.

With the sun still up, the P&H was pleasantly vacant when I arrived around 7PM.
With the sun still up, the P&H was pleasantly vacant when I arrived around 7PM.

While observing a high-skill game of billiards, I met Matt, a new entrepreneur in the Memphis area.  His concept – a salon slash music venue – is called The Warehaüs.  This potential new venue, located at 1331 Union, plans to have a grand opening on Wednesday, September 13th.  So mark your calendars and you will be among the first in-the-know about a place that will promote Memphis local talent – and perhaps improve their hair at the same time?

After that, the night took a distinct turn for the worse as real-life drama invaded the comfortable bar bubble.  Theft, tears, and police cars were involved.  I sincerely hope that everyone involved recovers from the shock and comes back stronger for it.  This is Memphis we live in.  Love it, hate it, but don’t ever forget it.

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